Demure drama: Pippa Middleton’s wedding dress deconstructed

Choosing edgy designer Giles Deacon to create traditional gown results in elegant but unconventional bridal look

The Middleton sisters have established an effective formula in choosing wedding dresses. Select an edgy designer, and commission them to create a fairly traditional gown. It works a treat, resulting in a bridal look which is elegant without being conventional, high taste but not too avant garde.

Pippa Middleton is led by her father, Michael, into St Marks Church in Englefield. Photograph: Justin Tallis/AFP/Getty Images

The high neckline and covered shoulders of Pippa Middletons Giles Deacon dress make it unassailably demure, yet it has a little more drama and attitude than found at the average home counties church wedding. The upstanding lace collar is rather fashion-forward, and the heart-shaped keyhole detail at the nape of the neck makes the dress interesting when seen from behind. The back view of the bridal party is very much in the spotlight on these occasions, something Middleton knows better than anyone after the intense interest in her slinky Alexander McQueen maid of honour dress at her sisters wedding. The cap sleeves make the dress more informal than Kates McQueen gown, while also showing off Middletons yoga-sculpted arms.

Deacon took the ballroom dancing scene from Luchino Viscontis 1963 film The Leopard as inspiration for a skirt which is draped at the front and filled with tulle at the back so that it floats gracefully. The designer, who credited his bridal client with having a great eye, is one of British fashions strongest talents. An independent-minded designer, his tiny London fashion week shows were packed to the rafters until he made the switch to a bespoke-only, haute couture business model last year.

The powerful stylist Katie Grand has described Deacon as fantastically talented and always slightly subversive. Until this weekend, his most famous bridal client was a voluptuously sultry dress for the model Abbey Clancy, who is married to the footballer Peter Crouch.

Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/may/20/demure-drama-wedding-dress-deconstructed-pippa-middleton

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